Tuesday, May 16, 2006

View of the Orontes River Valley


View of the Orontes River Valley
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The cardo at Apamea


The cardo at Apamea
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins


Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I made a day trip to Apamea, a Roman city from the 3rd century AD. The view was fantastic as were the Roman ruins, but you know, Roman columns are getting a bit tiring. On the way there, as usual, locals were curious about me, and we stumbled through bits of conversation. One guy even paid for my bus fare. The bus drops you off at the bottom of the hill, and I was prepared for the long hike up, but a dude on a motorcycle stopped and gave me a free lift to the ruins. It's hard to believe, but Syrians are even nicer than Jordanians. I think this part of the world is by far the safest, cheapest, and friendliest so far.

Evening noria action


Evening noria action
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Four Norias


The Four Norias
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Not particularly more beautiful or interesting than any of the other ones, but there are a few fancy restaurants on the riverbank with a view to these waterwheels.

Backlit noria


Backlit noria
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Short video of the groaning norias of Hama


Watch the video
I really didn't believe that these waterwheels turned on their own or really made that sound themselves. I thought it was all for show, but I think they're for real.

Hanging out in Hama


From Palmyra, I went to Hama, a town in the Orontes River valley. It is lush here with fertile land and plenty of water. Hama is known for its waterwheels, called "norias", which scoop water to irrigation aqueducts. Some of these are huge, measuring up to 20-meters in diameter. Made of wood, they make a groaning noise as they turn. It is quite loud. From Hama, I will be doing some daytrips to sights in the surrounding areas.

Tea break


Tea break
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

As I was wandering around the citadel's moat, I came upon these workers rebuilding a wall. They invited me for tea. Their English was limited and my Arabic ends after a brief exchange of greetings, so we played "name the capital city" game. The dude with the cowboy hat knew most of the capitals of the countries I had visited so far. When Geoff, a fellow American, showed up, and they found out he was American, they said, as everyone has done in the Middle East, "Welcome!"

Sunsetting over the desert


Sunsetting over the desert
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Citadel


The Citadel
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Palmyra at sunset


Palmyra at sunset
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I climbed the scree slope to the citadel and got this view as the sun was going down.

From the inside of a cave


From the inside of a cave
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Crypts


Crypts
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Room for four?

Inside a tomb


Inside a tomb
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Funerary hypgeum


Funerary hypgeum
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

A necropolis on the hillside, these towers were used as tombs.

Roman relief


Roman relief
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Pieces of columns


Pieces of columns
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Temple of Bal, Palmyra


Temple of Bal, Palmyra
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

After four nights in Damascus, enjoying mezze dinners and even a visit to a hamman (bathhouse), I went to Palmyra. It is a town by an oasis halfway between the coast and the Euphrates River, and was an important outpost for the trade routes to the far east for over 1000 years. When it was annexed by Rome in 217 AD, it flourished in wealth.
Today there is a small town built by the ruins. There are hills around the area, and an Arab Citadel on a peak.

Lobby of the Al Haramein Hotel in Damascus


Lobby of the Al Haramein Hotel in Damascus
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

A very clean and inexpensive hotel. I had a dorm bed for $6. Rooftop mattresses went for less than $4.