Friday, March 10, 2006

Gods churning the sea of milk


Gods churning the sea of milk
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

There are bas-reliefs that line the walls surrounding the central courtyard at Angkor Wat.

Descending towers of Angkor Wat


Descending towers of Angkor Wat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Ben told me there were a lot of Koreans here, but I wasn't prepared for this. I actually think there maybe more Koreans tour groups in Siem Reap than any other nationality. I'm not sure what the Cambodian-Korean travel agencies devised, but it's a shattering success.
This is the one staircase that has a metal bar to hold on to. That's why most people descend this way.

At the top


At the top
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

You can actually hike up steep (and sloping) stairs, risking life and limb, for a good view of the Angkor Wat area.

Me at Angkor Wat


Me at Angkor Wat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Once described as "flaming pineapples", these towers are a national emblem of Cambodia and figure proudly on their flag.

Siesta at Angkor


Siesta at Angkor
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Loads of Cambodians tend to the lawns at Angkor with machetes. It's tiring work, leaving them quite knackered by midday.

Buddha statue


Buddha statue
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Actually, many of the temples started off as Hindu monuments, but as with the rest of the region, Hindu was replaced by Buddhism, and there was re-modelling that took place (knock off a Hindu statue and replace it with a Buddha). Buddhism co-mingled with Hinduism, both of which came from Brahminism, and their beliefs are often entwined in these cultures.

Entering Angkor Wat


Entering Angkor Wat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

A one-day pass costs $20, but a three-day pass is $40. I got a 3-day pass, so I could enjoy the temples at my leisure.
Angkor Wat is actually a funerary temple, facing the setting sun. The Angkor kingdom was ruled by "God-kings", so in that regard, very much like the States. The "Devarajas" were incarnations of a diety, and when they died, passed on to become the deities. Some say this megalomania contributed to the demise of the Angkor kingdom, as it could not support the wars fought and temples that were constantly being built.

Broad walkway crossing the moat


Broad walkway crossing the moat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

So what to do in Siem Reap? Visit the Angkor ruins just north of the city!
Angkor was a great Khmer kingdom that built massive stone religious temples in the 10th through the 13th centuries. The most famous of all ruins is Angkor Wat, but there are loads of other ruins there too.
The Angkor ruins were "re-discovered" by the French late in the 19th century in a state of ruin. The jungle had encroached on many of the structures, and actually, poor knowledge of how to built with stone, lead to the early collapse of many of the sites (the Khmer used the stone as if it were wood). For the definitive guide to Angkor check here:
www.theangkorguide.com/

Getting bikes ready at Sunrise GH


Getting bikes ready at Sunrise GH
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Sunrise Guesthouse, an excellent place in Siem Reap. Four dollars got me a double bed, fan, with bathroom (western toilet). No hot water, but I didn't need it. They had bicycle rentals for $1.50/day and sold me a 6-pack of water for 2500 rial (4100 rial = 1 USD).
It turns out this older man spoke Mandarin, so we got along fine.

Stuffing herself at Arun Restaurant


Stuffing herself at Arun Restaurant
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Arun restaurant has some of the best value in town. Look at that plate of spring rolls for $1.30! Siem Reap is full of tourists and acommodation to meet any budget. The quality of food is much better than I found in Phnom Penh.

Casinos in Poipet


Casinos in Poipet
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Gambling is illegal in Thailand, but not so in Cambodia. A healthy casino industry thrives in Poipet on weekenders from Bangkok. Looks like a mini-Biloxi.

Entering Cambodia


Entering Cambodia
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

There are cheap tourist buses that run from Khao San Road to Siem Reap for as low as 250 BHT, but I chose to go to the city bus station and take a non-touristy bus to the border. For 207 BHT, I was on an air-conditioned first-class Thai bus to Aranya Prathet at 0730 and arrived at the border at 1130. I had beat the tourist buses (and crowds) and was able to get my Cambodian visa on arrival for $20, paying no one else for commission. On the Cambodian side, I bought a $10 ticket on a tourist bus (at least it was air-conditioned) for a bumpy 4.5 hour ride to Siem Reap.
The tourist bus scam is explained here:
www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-overland-bkksr.htm
Basically, the buses make money off of commission to rest stops and guesthouses and from "helping you" apply for your visa. You leave late, stop many times, and arrive at night in Siem Reap when it is too dark and you are too tired to find your own accommodation.