I am in Beirut today. I took a minibus from Homs down here; it only took five hours. I met a really nice Palestinian family on the microbus that gave me a handful of chocolate candies; people are so nice here in the Middle East.

Beirut is a modern city springing back from years of civil war. The streets are filled with Porsches and Mercedes. The downtown pedestrian area is beautiful and expensive. It's quite an open society here, influenced much by the French. Many of the signs are in French, and the architecture is reminescent of France. There are also a lot of buildings that show scars from the civil wars in the 1980's and 90's. There are bombed out buildings with artillery scars. The waterfront is beautiful and tonight it was crowded with people exercising and enjoying nargila, the waterpipe. I expect to be here for almost a week, after which, inshallah (God willing), I will be let back into Syria.

Geoff stuck holding the baby

Geoff stuck holding the baby
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

We watched the spectacle in the field for about 20 minutes until a Syrian ushered us away. I had no idea what was in store of us, but he did. He led us out through the front, where there was a dense crowd of young men. It was crushing. We pressed forward and the man recruited the help of a riot policeman and an official in a suit. We set off with this armed escort at a half-jog to find transport out of there. Hands were reaching out grabbing my pockets (fortunately zippered shut) and in front of me, Cajsa was getting groped left and right. I was beating and twisting hands off of us, as we pressed forward. We eventually got to the street, and the man hailed a new sedan and asked the family inside to take us wherever we needed to go (which happened to be the bus station so we could catch a minibus to Hama). The family happily obliged, and we pressed through the crowded streets like celebrities. Kids pounded on the car and faces loomed up to the windows, and things didn't seem to quiet down until Cajsa covered her head with a scarf. As we pulled away from the stadium, we were all so bewildered with the nights' events. The father, driving, handed their darling baby girl for us to hold.
We were dropped off at the bus station and given a kiss on both cheeks in farewell. Say it with me, folks, "I love Syrians!"

Smack down!

Smack down!
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

There is a dude getting caned by a cop.

Fleeing from the police

Fleeing from the police
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

As the crowd grew, riot police came out. They didn't do much, but every now and again there would be a load of people running away from some unknown danger. The crowd swelled and people danced and sang. The police seemed to want to keep things from getting out of control.

Al Karameh, the local Homs team beats Saga Battery, the team from Tehran, 1-0

Al Karameh, the local Homs team beats Saga Battery, the team from Tehran, 1-0

Watch the video

The crowds stormed the fields, and it was like a scene from a movie. Fireworks were going off, and riot police kept things from getting out of hand. What a spectacle!

Young fans

Young fans
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Why would you want to bomb her?

Why would you want to bomb her?
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

This adorable Iranian girl was bored with the game.

The mayor of Homs

The mayor of Homs
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

During halftime, this well-groomed lady turned around to us and introduced herself as the mayor of Homs. Seated next to her was the governor's wife.
We were obviously seated in someone else's seats, and when more people showed up, we weren't asked to leave, but we just squeezed closer together to make room. They even passed out free refreshments to us.

Saga Battery fan

Saga Battery fan
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

This guy was from Iran, but was working in Syria. When he found out Geoff and I were Americans, he said it was too bad we couldn't visit his country as it was beautiful, and, he insisted, "Iranians really, really, really love Americans...REALLY!"
Moments like these make me really, really, really resent all political leaders who would lie and discredit other nations for their own dubious reasons.

Al Karameh scores!

Al Karameh scores!
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Players thank Allah by kneeling toward Mecca.

Teams line up

Teams line up
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

On the left, in blue, was the local Syrian team, and on the right, in black, was the Iranian team.

VIP seating

VIP seating
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Syrians quickly realized we had only 2nd class tickets, but they didn't kick us out. We first sat on a wall for a couple minutes, until we were ushered over to the VIP seating area. It was absolutely unbelieveable. Not only did they let some scruffy foreigners in, but they put us in the best seats. Our day of Syrian hospitality was just getting started.

View of the stadium in Homs, Syria

View of the stadium in Homs, Syria

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Getting into the stadium was such a relief. I didn't expect to be let in at all. You could tell seating was packed, and the crowds were ecstatic. I didn't know how long we would be allowed in the VIP seating area before they kicked us out for having 2nd class general admission tickets, so I quickly took some pictures and shot some video.

Filled to capacity

Filled to capacity
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

When we got back to the stadium, the entrances were packed. A young Syrian helped us find a way in because the stadium was already full (they oversold tickets). We went to the VIP section and even asked at the women and children's section, but they wouldn't let anyone else in. Finally, as things seemed bleak and the riot police came out to quell the shoving crowds, they let Geoff and Cajsa in at the VIP gate, and I squeezed in after them.
The Syrian helping us out didn't get in himself; he was just trying to help a bunch of clueless foreigners -- that's how nice people are around here!

Cute girl in the schwarma shop

Cute girl in the schwarma shop
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

In the schwarma shop, I saw this cute girl and she let me take her photo.

Al Karameh fans flood the streets of Homs

Al Karameh fans flood the streets of Homs
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The streets were filled with Hommonites wearing blue and orange, the colors of Al Karameh, the local team.

Cheap tickets!

Cheap tickets!
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

In Homs, we bought our tickets (only $2 for general admission) for the soccer game, but went to get some food first.

Free lift

Free lift
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

From the Crac, we had to hitchhike to Homs as it was past 5pm and no more buses were headed there. There were plenty of people offering to take us there for a few dollars (very expensive in Syria), but we held out and got a ride from a truck driver. The three of us squeezed into the cab with some lime trees he was transporting. We took photos of each other and he did the same.

Geoff and Cajsa

Geoff and Cajsa
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I met both of these travellers in Damascus. Geoff and I headed to Palmyra and Hama together, but Cajsa, a Swede, showed up in Hama a couple hours after we arrived.
Geoff is from the States and, interestingly enough, was stationed at Camp Pendelton and has been out in the sandbox.
Cajsa actually lived in Saudi Arabia for a year and has been to the Middle East several times.
We met up here at the Crac so we could go to Homs together for a soccer match.

Stairs and archways from an Escher sketch

Stairs and archways from an Escher sketch
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Crac is filled with dark staircases and tunnels. Fortunately I had my headlamp with me.

Crac des Chevaliers

Crac des Chevaliers
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Yesterday, I went to visit the uninteresting coastal town of Tartus (I didn't take any photos there) and this massive 12 century crusader castle. This castle guarded the Homs Gap, a pass between the Syrian interior and the Mediterranean coast. It was later given up by the Crusaders who realized they could last there for years, but had lost the area to the Muslims already. I actually got this photo from http://www.lkenhagen.de/
It gives you a better idea of what Crac des Chevaliers looks like than my photos.

View of the Orontes River Valley

View of the Orontes River Valley
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The cardo at Apamea

The cardo at Apamea
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins

Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I made a day trip to Apamea, a Roman city from the 3rd century AD. The view was fantastic as were the Roman ruins, but you know, Roman columns are getting a bit tiring. On the way there, as usual, locals were curious about me, and we stumbled through bits of conversation. One guy even paid for my bus fare. The bus drops you off at the bottom of the hill, and I was prepared for the long hike up, but a dude on a motorcycle stopped and gave me a free lift to the ruins. It's hard to believe, but Syrians are even nicer than Jordanians. I think this part of the world is by far the safest, cheapest, and friendliest so far.

Evening noria action

Evening noria action
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Four Norias

The Four Norias
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Not particularly more beautiful or interesting than any of the other ones, but there are a few fancy restaurants on the riverbank with a view to these waterwheels.

Backlit noria

Backlit noria
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Short video of the groaning norias of Hama

Short video of the groaning norias of Hama

Watch the video

I really didn't believe that these waterwheels turned on their own or really made that sound themselves. I thought it was all for show, but I think they're for real.

Hanging out in Hama

From Palmyra, I went to Hama, a town in the Orontes River valley. It is lush here with fertile land and plenty of water. Hama is known for its waterwheels, called "norias", which scoop water to irrigation aqueducts. Some of these are huge, measuring up to 20-meters in diameter. Made of wood, they make a groaning noise as they turn. It is quite loud. From Hama, I will be doing some daytrips to sights in the surrounding areas.

Tea break

Tea break
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

As I was wandering around the citadel's moat, I came upon these workers rebuilding a wall. They invited me for tea. Their English was limited and my Arabic ends after a brief exchange of greetings, so we played "name the capital city" game. The dude with the cowboy hat knew most of the capitals of the countries I had visited so far. When Geoff, a fellow American, showed up, and they found out he was American, they said, as everyone has done in the Middle East, "Welcome!"

Sunsetting over the desert

Sunsetting over the desert
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Citadel

The Citadel
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Palmyra at sunset

Palmyra at sunset
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I climbed the scree slope to the citadel and got this view as the sun was going down.

From the inside of a cave

From the inside of a cave
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Crypts

Crypts
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Room for four?

Inside a tomb

Inside a tomb
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Funerary hypgeum

Funerary hypgeum
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

A necropolis on the hillside, these towers were used as tombs.

Roman relief

Roman relief
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Pieces of columns

Pieces of columns
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Temple of Bal, Palmyra

Temple of Bal, Palmyra
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

After four nights in Damascus, enjoying mezze dinners and even a visit to a hamman (bathhouse), I went to Palmyra. It is a town by an oasis halfway between the coast and the Euphrates River, and was an important outpost for the trade routes to the far east for over 1000 years. When it was annexed by Rome in 217 AD, it flourished in wealth.
Today there is a small town built by the ruins. There are hills around the area, and an Arab Citadel on a peak.

Lobby of the Al Haramein Hotel in Damascus

Lobby of the Al Haramein Hotel in Damascus
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

A very clean and inexpensive hotel. I had a dorm bed for $6. Rooftop mattresses went for less than $4.