a travelogue for a solo cross-country motorcycle road trip from Tampa, Florida to San Diego, California in 2008 and an overland attempt from Singapore to Morocco from November 2004 to August 2006
Thursday, November 11, 2004
waterfall at wulai. not particularly spectacular, hence the overzealous enthusiasm. this waterfall is supposed to be 80 m high and quite impressive after a rain. wulai is about an hour's bus ride south of taipei. it is known for this waterfall, but also "dreamland", a tacky amusement park situated at the top of the mountain, accessible by cable car ride. this place is tacky, like the amusement park on beach blvd in biloxi next to ruby tuesdays. there was a performance by six guys from burkina faso, an african country north of ghana. i was a little confused by this african drumming and dancing as i thought there would be a taiwanese aboriginal village at the top of the mountain. as it turns out, the aborigine village is a taxi ride 17 km further into the mountains; my bad, for not bringing the guidebook along with us. at least the view was good and it was cooler up in the mountain than being down on the valley floor. "damn, it's mad hot in china!"
Wednesday, November 10, 2004
Monday, November 08, 2004
Earthquaking
We had a small trembler here last night; it was pretty cool. I'm staying with my friend who is on the fifth floor of an apartment building. I thought it was a truck rolling by, but then the shaking got stronger. My friend said it was an earthquake, and I think I heard someone outside scream. I haven't felt an earthquake in about 13 years; fortunately it wasn't too big. There was a big one in Taiwan about four years ago; about 2500 people died. They say because the earthquakes loosen the soil, when the torrential rains come, massive mudslides occur. There was apparently a huge mudslide a couple months ago at the hot springs resort where I was this weekend. The riverbed was filled in about 30 feet and widened. I saw buildings lying on their sides in the middle of the riverbed; it was pretty wierd. Hotels that were built next to the river have lost their first floors.
Anyways, the epicenter of the earthquake last night is close to the place we're going to tomorrow. Hopefully there won't be any big rains. haha. Environmentalists have felt that the deforestation that occurs in the mountains and hills and the plantings of crops contributed to the mudslides, and the construction of the cross-island highways have denuded the mountains of their root systems which the topsoil in place. Anyways, the mudslides also destroyed parts of the cross-island highways, and the government has no plans to rebuild them. It's been a losing battle so the forest is taking back the mountains. Because there is no cross-island road (hence no bus) I will take the train, which hugs the coast, to get to the other side of the island.
Anyways, the epicenter of the earthquake last night is close to the place we're going to tomorrow. Hopefully there won't be any big rains. haha. Environmentalists have felt that the deforestation that occurs in the mountains and hills and the plantings of crops contributed to the mudslides, and the construction of the cross-island highways have denuded the mountains of their root systems which the topsoil in place. Anyways, the mudslides also destroyed parts of the cross-island highways, and the government has no plans to rebuild them. It's been a losing battle so the forest is taking back the mountains. Because there is no cross-island road (hence no bus) I will take the train, which hugs the coast, to get to the other side of the island.
Chiang Kai-Shek memorial entrance
This is me at the entrance door. The actual memorial is like an Asian Lincoln memorial. There is no particular reason I do not have a picture of it. The weather is really nice here, around 75 F; lots of Taiwanese were wearing long sleeves and coats because it is winter time. There were not many tourists here because it is a weekday, and the ones you did see carried open umbrellas to protect themselves from the damaging effects of UV light. This, apparently, is the secret of the anti-aging Asian.
week 1: Kaohsiung to Taipei
I arrived to Taipei, the capital of Taiwan, last night. I have spent the past week in Kaohsiung, a large city in the south, staying with my relatives and my mother, who is visiting too. The weather is nice and warm in the south, like Biloxi. Let me paint a picture for you...
The morning open air market bustles with produce and meats which many folks buy for their daily meals. The vegetables and fruits are larger than we see in the states, and far more exotic and tropical. The meats are exotic as well; I've seen live fish, shrimp, crabs, eels and frogs awaiting their doom next to a chopping block. I've seen fresh pasta being made for wonton skins and noodles. They also sell all sorts of nic-nacs like footwear and clothing. Salespeople wear headset microphones so they can tout their wares via a PA system. Dogs roam the alleys freely and you have to keep an eye out to watch for their poop. By midday, the morning market has packed up and gone and the store fronts open up their shutters and bring out their latest fashions on clotheracks and displays to the sidewalks. Traffic zooms by: scooters, gold-colored taxis, and blue mini-flatbed trucks with some apparently oblivious to lights and lanes. At night, food carts appear with their lighting systems, tables, and stools. They don't serve hotdog and pretzels like they do in NYC; they are able to cook up noodles, meats, dumplings, and on and on. It's all very good, very cheap, and hopefully very hepatitis-free.
I spent the weekend in the mountains at a hot spring resort. Hotels pump thermal water into their swimming pools and wading areas. It is pretty fun, and the water is filled with minerals, without the foul odor I expected. They make you wear a swimming cap along with your trunks. I wore a pink one, because that's what was left. Awesome.
I've seen three scooter accidents in four days. As I have mentioned, the driving is pretty erratic. Hit-and-runs are common and bystanders are sometimes afraid to stop to help for fear of being accused of causing the accident. It seems, at times, that folks live their lives one day at a time.
Taipei, by comparison to Kaoshiung, is like Manhatten to any other major city in America. The streets are huge, there are no piles of dog poop, and billboards and neon lights advertise major international companies. Today I visited Taipei's 101-storey skyscraper, apparently the tallest building in the world for those keeping track. The mall inside probably has a boutique for every French and Italian fashion designer in the world...and the stuff they sell all looks the same: Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Ferragamo, Cerrutti...whatever. The mall inside is about five-storeys tall, and it feels like being in the States. I am visiting my good friend Michael here, and today we had lunch at a buffet. For about $20 USD it was all-you-can eat food (fresh crabs, shrimp, fish, meats made to order, and sushi, and Chinese food) PLUS an open bar. After an hour, we decided to get drunk. I don't know how much I had to drink, but we probably would still be there except they closed at 4pm. We were there for about 3 and a half hours. Fortunately the MTR (mass transit rail) is sparkling clean and modern and close by.
In a couple days we may head off to Taroko Gorge via train.
I will try to visit the National Museum. :)
The morning open air market bustles with produce and meats which many folks buy for their daily meals. The vegetables and fruits are larger than we see in the states, and far more exotic and tropical. The meats are exotic as well; I've seen live fish, shrimp, crabs, eels and frogs awaiting their doom next to a chopping block. I've seen fresh pasta being made for wonton skins and noodles. They also sell all sorts of nic-nacs like footwear and clothing. Salespeople wear headset microphones so they can tout their wares via a PA system. Dogs roam the alleys freely and you have to keep an eye out to watch for their poop. By midday, the morning market has packed up and gone and the store fronts open up their shutters and bring out their latest fashions on clotheracks and displays to the sidewalks. Traffic zooms by: scooters, gold-colored taxis, and blue mini-flatbed trucks with some apparently oblivious to lights and lanes. At night, food carts appear with their lighting systems, tables, and stools. They don't serve hotdog and pretzels like they do in NYC; they are able to cook up noodles, meats, dumplings, and on and on. It's all very good, very cheap, and hopefully very hepatitis-free.
I spent the weekend in the mountains at a hot spring resort. Hotels pump thermal water into their swimming pools and wading areas. It is pretty fun, and the water is filled with minerals, without the foul odor I expected. They make you wear a swimming cap along with your trunks. I wore a pink one, because that's what was left. Awesome.
I've seen three scooter accidents in four days. As I have mentioned, the driving is pretty erratic. Hit-and-runs are common and bystanders are sometimes afraid to stop to help for fear of being accused of causing the accident. It seems, at times, that folks live their lives one day at a time.
Taipei, by comparison to Kaoshiung, is like Manhatten to any other major city in America. The streets are huge, there are no piles of dog poop, and billboards and neon lights advertise major international companies. Today I visited Taipei's 101-storey skyscraper, apparently the tallest building in the world for those keeping track. The mall inside probably has a boutique for every French and Italian fashion designer in the world...and the stuff they sell all looks the same: Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Ferragamo, Cerrutti...whatever. The mall inside is about five-storeys tall, and it feels like being in the States. I am visiting my good friend Michael here, and today we had lunch at a buffet. For about $20 USD it was all-you-can eat food (fresh crabs, shrimp, fish, meats made to order, and sushi, and Chinese food) PLUS an open bar. After an hour, we decided to get drunk. I don't know how much I had to drink, but we probably would still be there except they closed at 4pm. We were there for about 3 and a half hours. Fortunately the MTR (mass transit rail) is sparkling clean and modern and close by.
In a couple days we may head off to Taroko Gorge via train.
I will try to visit the National Museum. :)
Friday, November 05, 2004
Taiwan
I've made it to Taiwan. The weather is great; it reminds me of Biloxi. Good eats and the relatives are great. Grandma is doing fine and ambulating with a cane. More later.
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