Chimneys lit up at night
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Friday, June 02, 2006
Afternoon in Göreme
Afternoon in Göreme
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Göreme is a very touristy vıllage, but there are loads of cheap accommodation, which is nice. Fortunately a cheap (1.5 YTL, which happens to be $1) can take you to the Nevşehir, the next big town over, which has cheap eats and internet.
View from my new room
View from my new room
Originally uploaded by bastchild.I moved into another room for the next day as it was too cold to "chill out" (har, har!) in the cave. This was the view from my window.
Göreme cave dwellings
Göreme cave dwellings
Originally uploaded by bastchild.Cappadocia is famous for its "fairy chimneys", a geologic phenomenon resulting from wind and rain erosion of volcanic ash. Or something like that.
It sucks arriving so late at night, but I was able to get this room which thankfully had hot water to wash off the day's sweat. It was surprisingly cold in this cave so the comforter helped.
Antakya
Antakya
Originally uploaded by bastchild.I was only here for four hours waiting for my bus to Göreme. It was a long day from my 0500h bus from Aleppo; I didn't arrive in Göreme until 2345h after changing buses three times. But the buses in Turkey are awesome. There are several different operators, and they're not as plush as Taiwan's buses, but they're still quite nice. It's There's even a steward who brings you refreshments.
Entering Turkey
Entering Turkey
Originally uploaded by bastchild.Yeah, what a suck getting in it was. Fifty people at the window thrusting their passports blindly through the window while the one official stamped away; meanwhile about 20 of us formed a sensible line waiting for two hours to get up to the window as more and more people squeezed up and left. Finally a fight nearly broke out with all the line cutting. The bus threatened to leave without me, but they finally decided to help me get my visa and away we went! Strangely, on the Syrian side there were about eight windows with bored officers waiting for customers. What's up with Turkey?
My smallest room yet!
My smallest room yet!
Originally uploaded by bastchild.Only 200 SP, this place had a fan and a stool. It was hot all night and I actually slept only a few hours before my early bus to Turkey. I think this used to be a balcony.
The ruins inside the Citadel walls
The ruins inside the Citdael walls
Originally uploaded by bastchild.The Citadel ultimately succumbed to time. There was a restored theatre and a mosque here. It blazing hot that day, and I took refuge in the shadow of the wall.
The Citadel in Aleppo
The Citadel in Aleppo
Originally uploaded by bastchild.This is the imposing entrance to the Citadel in Aleppo (normal entry price 300 SP, but only 10 SP with my student id card, ka-ching!). Built on a man-made hill, apparently this fortress was never taken. Invaders circled around it, and after a few days, left, deciding it would be too difficult to breach.
The duty free mall and food court
The duty free mall and food court
Originally uploaded by bastchild.This was not a bad place to hang out for 8.5 hours.
Leaving Lebanon
Leaving Lebanon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.Thıs is the border between Lebanon and Syria. There are big yellow American muscle cars that will zip passengers between Beirut and Syria. I actually got a ride on one of these when I eventually made it through the Syrian side. I had forgotten how smooth those beasts were; it actually made me miss my 1978 Impala stationwagon.
Friday, May 26, 2006
Crossing borders
From Beirut, I headed back to Syria. It's supposed to be only a three-hour trip from Beirut to Damascus, but I ended up waiting 8.5 hours at the border for my Syrian vısa. On the bright side, there was a great air-conditioned duty-free shoppıng mall next to the passport control which had an inexpensıve food court (even a Dunkin Donuts!). By hour seven, it was already dark and I got the nerve to ask the immigration officials if there was a place for me to sleep, but the officer on duty reassured me that it never took longer than eight hours, they were open 24-hours, I could sleep anywhere, they would wake me when word came from Damascus, and he would be happy to have one of hıs men drive me to Damascus for free. Ya gotta love Syrian hospitality!
It doesn't seem right that I only spent a couple more days in Syria! I went to Aleppo, the second largest city ın Syria after Damascus, visited the souqs of the old city and Christian Quarter, and explored the 12th century Citadel built on an man-made earthern mound, and decided that it was time to move on to Turkey (either that or be stuck in Syria on a Friday when everything ıs closed and get more money from the ATM).
At 0500 this morning, I got on a nearly empty bus headed to Antakya, the nearest big city in Turkey. I was stuck at the border again for two hours this tıme, but only because there was only one window open at the passport control, and there were about 50 people crammed up there (and more arriving and contributıng to the scrum) trying to get their passports and carnets de passage stamped. That border was the busiest I've seen with trucks and buses parked on the side of the border for a few miles.
I'm in Antakya now, awaiting my afternoon bus heading for Cappadocia. It is more expensive here than in Syria (thanks to the EU!); I'll be spending more for the bus rıde (about $14) than I have on any day ın Syria.
So I finished my tour of the Levant, including Israel & Palestine, which should be impossible in one visit because of the stigma of the Israeli immigration stamp. If you have any evidence of entry into Israel, you are not allowed into Lebanon or Syria. So how do you do it? When leaving Egypt for Jordan, you take the ferry from Nuweiba so that you avoid the border crossing into Israel. When leaving Jordan for the West Bank, you leave vıa the King Hussein Bridge crossing. Jordan still considers the West Bank as part of Jordan, so although you pay a 5 JD departure fee, you don't get an exit stamp from Jordan. On the Israeli side, you have to repeatedly ask/plead/beg the sexy Israelı passport control women not to stamp your passport, and if you're lucky, they won't. After that, it's easy because you just have to return to Jordan via the same crossing and you'll have no problems getting into the other countries. In the Mideast, only Morocco, Turkey, Egypt, and Jordan will let you enter with an Israeli stamp in your passport. Of course the Israeli's treat others only slightly better. A couple British students I met in Jerusalem were harrassed and questioned and delayed by the Israeli immigration officials (one even had his butt probed) at the same checkpoint; one had been to Iran and Syria while the other had been to Pakistan to visit family, but hey, I guess they got in.
Tuesday, May 23, 2006
The Temple of Bacchus
The Temple of Bacchus
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Another day trip from Beirut is Baalbek, the site of an old Roman temple built upon a temple to the Sun God, Baal.
The Temple of Jupiter is pretty much gone, but this great temple to Bacchus remains in good condition.
Debanne Palace
Debanne Palace
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
An old palace that has been restored and is free to visit. It is found by a marked door in the souq.
Scars from the civil war
Scars from the civil war
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The modern history of Lebanon is quite complex involving several different parties, and not as simple as "Muslims versus Christians" as many would have you think. Sadly it has involved several years of civil war bringing in to play the Israelis, Palestinians, Syrians, and a UN Multinational Force, costing thousands of lives. Things remain somewhat unresolved as the predominantly Maronite Christian government is supposed to have more Muslim representation.
May 23 (today) is their Independence Day, but celebrations were cancelled this year to prevent demonstrations and conflicts between opposing parties. Still, I bought a watermelon to share at the hostel.
Beirut skyline
Beirut skyline
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Okay, there's more to the skyline, but there are a lot of cranes in the air.
Downtown's pedestrian zone
Downtown's pedestrian zone
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Rebuilt buildings all of the same color and shape. It definitely contributes to the non-Middle Eastern feel in Beirut.
Old and new
Old and new
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Fancy new cars roam the streets of Beirut passing quaint buildings that remind me of France.
Entering Lebanon
Entering Lebanon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Entering Lebanon was a breeze. You can get a visa on arrival for 25,000 Lebanese Lira (1,500 LL = $1) that will give you 15 days, which is plenty for a country the size of Delaware.
Friday, May 19, 2006
I am in Beirut today. I took a minibus from Homs down here; it only took five hours. I met a really nice Palestinian family on the microbus that gave me a handful of chocolate candies; people are so nice here in the Middle East.
Beirut is a modern city springing back from years of civil war. The streets are filled with Porsches and Mercedes. The downtown pedestrian area is beautiful and expensive. It's quite an open society here, influenced much by the French. Many of the signs are in French, and the architecture is reminescent of France. There are also a lot of buildings that show scars from the civil wars in the 1980's and 90's. There are bombed out buildings with artillery scars. The waterfront is beautiful and tonight it was crowded with people exercising and enjoying nargila, the waterpipe. I expect to be here for almost a week, after which, inshallah (God willing), I will be let back into Syria.
Thursday, May 18, 2006
Geoff stuck holding the baby
Geoff stuck holding the baby
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
We watched the spectacle in the field for about 20 minutes until a Syrian ushered us away. I had no idea what was in store of us, but he did. He led us out through the front, where there was a dense crowd of young men. It was crushing. We pressed forward and the man recruited the help of a riot policeman and an official in a suit. We set off with this armed escort at a half-jog to find transport out of there. Hands were reaching out grabbing my pockets (fortunately zippered shut) and in front of me, Cajsa was getting groped left and right. I was beating and twisting hands off of us, as we pressed forward. We eventually got to the street, and the man hailed a new sedan and asked the family inside to take us wherever we needed to go (which happened to be the bus station so we could catch a minibus to Hama). The family happily obliged, and we pressed through the crowded streets like celebrities. Kids pounded on the car and faces loomed up to the windows, and things didn't seem to quiet down until Cajsa covered her head with a scarf. As we pulled away from the stadium, we were all so bewildered with the nights' events. The father, driving, handed their darling baby girl for us to hold.
We were dropped off at the bus station and given a kiss on both cheeks in farewell. Say it with me, folks, "I love Syrians!"
Fleeing from the police
Fleeing from the police
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
As the crowd grew, riot police came out. They didn't do much, but every now and again there would be a load of people running away from some unknown danger. The crowd swelled and people danced and sang. The police seemed to want to keep things from getting out of control.
Al Karameh, the local Homs team beats Saga Battery, the team from Tehran, 1-0
The crowds stormed the fields, and it was like a scene from a movie. Fireworks were going off, and riot police kept things from getting out of hand. What a spectacle!
Why would you want to bomb her?
Why would you want to bomb her?
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This adorable Iranian girl was bored with the game.
The mayor of Homs
The mayor of Homs
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
During halftime, this well-groomed lady turned around to us and introduced herself as the mayor of Homs. Seated next to her was the governor's wife.
We were obviously seated in someone else's seats, and when more people showed up, we weren't asked to leave, but we just squeezed closer together to make room. They even passed out free refreshments to us.
Saga Battery fan
Saga Battery fan
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This guy was from Iran, but was working in Syria. When he found out Geoff and I were Americans, he said it was too bad we couldn't visit his country as it was beautiful, and, he insisted, "Iranians really, really, really love Americans...REALLY!"
Moments like these make me really, really, really resent all political leaders who would lie and discredit other nations for their own dubious reasons.
Teams line up
Teams line up
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
On the left, in blue, was the local Syrian team, and on the right, in black, was the Iranian team.
VIP seating
VIP seating
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The Syrians quickly realized we had only 2nd class tickets, but they didn't kick us out. We first sat on a wall for a couple minutes, until we were ushered over to the VIP seating area. It was absolutely unbelieveable. Not only did they let some scruffy foreigners in, but they put us in the best seats. Our day of Syrian hospitality was just getting started.
View of the stadium in Homs, Syria
Getting into the stadium was such a relief. I didn't expect to be let in at all. You could tell seating was packed, and the crowds were ecstatic. I didn't know how long we would be allowed in the VIP seating area before they kicked us out for having 2nd class general admission tickets, so I quickly took some pictures and shot some video.
Filled to capacity
Filled to capacity
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
When we got back to the stadium, the entrances were packed. A young Syrian helped us find a way in because the stadium was already full (they oversold tickets). We went to the VIP section and even asked at the women and children's section, but they wouldn't let anyone else in. Finally, as things seemed bleak and the riot police came out to quell the shoving crowds, they let Geoff and Cajsa in at the VIP gate, and I squeezed in after them.
The Syrian helping us out didn't get in himself; he was just trying to help a bunch of clueless foreigners -- that's how nice people are around here!
Cute girl in the schwarma shop
Cute girl in the schwarma shop
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
In the schwarma shop, I saw this cute girl and she let me take her photo.
Al Karameh fans flood the streets of Homs
Al Karameh fans flood the streets of Homs
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The streets were filled with Hommonites wearing blue and orange, the colors of Al Karameh, the local team.
Cheap tickets!
Cheap tickets!
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
In Homs, we bought our tickets (only $2 for general admission) for the soccer game, but went to get some food first.
Free lift
Free lift
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
From the Crac, we had to hitchhike to Homs as it was past 5pm and no more buses were headed there. There were plenty of people offering to take us there for a few dollars (very expensive in Syria), but we held out and got a ride from a truck driver. The three of us squeezed into the cab with some lime trees he was transporting. We took photos of each other and he did the same.
Geoff and Cajsa
Geoff and Cajsa
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I met both of these travellers in Damascus. Geoff and I headed to Palmyra and Hama together, but Cajsa, a Swede, showed up in Hama a couple hours after we arrived.
Geoff is from the States and, interestingly enough, was stationed at Camp Pendelton and has been out in the sandbox.
Cajsa actually lived in Saudi Arabia for a year and has been to the Middle East several times.
We met up here at the Crac so we could go to Homs together for a soccer match.
Stairs and archways from an Escher sketch
Stairs and archways from an Escher sketch
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The Crac is filled with dark staircases and tunnels. Fortunately I had my headlamp with me.
Crac des Chevaliers
Crac des Chevaliers
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Yesterday, I went to visit the uninteresting coastal town of Tartus (I didn't take any photos there) and this massive 12 century crusader castle. This castle guarded the Homs Gap, a pass between the Syrian interior and the Mediterranean coast. It was later given up by the Crusaders who realized they could last there for years, but had lost the area to the Muslims already. I actually got this photo from http://www.lkenhagen.de/
It gives you a better idea of what Crac des Chevaliers looks like than my photos.
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins
Qala'at al Mudiq and Roman ruins
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I made a day trip to Apamea, a Roman city from the 3rd century AD. The view was fantastic as were the Roman ruins, but you know, Roman columns are getting a bit tiring. On the way there, as usual, locals were curious about me, and we stumbled through bits of conversation. One guy even paid for my bus fare. The bus drops you off at the bottom of the hill, and I was prepared for the long hike up, but a dude on a motorcycle stopped and gave me a free lift to the ruins. It's hard to believe, but Syrians are even nicer than Jordanians. I think this part of the world is by far the safest, cheapest, and friendliest so far.
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