Khas Mahal and Roti Masjid
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The Roti Masjid, is Pearl Mosque, the private worshipping place of Aurangzeb, a Mughal empreror.
Thursday, March 23, 2006
Entrance to the Diwan-i-am
Entrance to the Diwan-i-am
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is the entrance to the private living are of the Mughal emperor in the Red Fort.
People getting out of a truck
People getting out of a truck
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Actually, this was a dump truck, but they put a cover over the top and all these folks came out the back. It looked like a pilgrimage of sorts.
Red Fort and the Lahore Gate
Red Fort and the Lahore Gate
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The Red Fort was built by Shan Jahan in 1648. He had planned on moving the capital of the Mughal Empire from the Red Fort in Agra (where the Taj Mahal is) to Delhi, but he never made it because his son imprisoned him and took over the empire. Regardless, it stands as an important site in Indian Independence, as a place or repression and liberation. During the Indian uprising, the British garrisoned their troops here and placed their administrative offices in the confines of this "Green Zone". Later, it was the place where Indian nationalists made important speeches declaring themselves free of British rule. There really isn't much to see inside, however, but it does have a small interesting museum on Indian Independence.
Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Built in 1658, this is supposed to be the largest mosque in India, holding about 25,000 worshippers in its courtyard.
Auto-rickshaws
Auto-rickshaws
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
These CNG (clean natural gas)-powered beasts trawl around looking for tourists like sharks in water. They're essentially tuktuks, and like in Thailand, they like to overcharge tourists. I bargained a ride down to 50 Rs, but when I watched the meter, the long ride only cost 10 Rs! The driver smiled and shook his head, because he would never let a tourist use the meter!
Convenience store
Convenience store
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I heard on the news that Tesco Lotus (basically Walmart) was trying to negotiate a deal to open up their massive SuperCenters in India. Apparently, there are no Hypermarkets or Supercenters in all of India -- Carrefour, Walmart, and Tesco-Lotus all want to get in to the potential 1 billion customers. For now, however, small stores like this seem to be the place to buy toiletries and snacks.
Wednesday, March 22, 2006
Back in New Delhi
I've arrived in India! When I left three months ago, it was surprisingly cold, but now it is perfect spring weather. There is less soot and smoke in the air because of the warmer weather; I think there had been a lot of fires lit to keep people warm.
It is nice to be back! I've got a nice room for less than the cost of a youth hostel in Europe at Hotel Silver Shine in the Pahar Ganj area. It's where I stayed at last December. It's relatively expensive (less than $20), but the alternatives are either much more expensive or mosquito havens; I've got a good medium. I've got cable tv, refrigerator, hot water shower, and, more importantly, no mosquitos.
I went to care of some business at the Embassy cantonment area all morning and actually got it all done! I crashed out in the afternoon for a six hour siesta (I only got an hour sleep on the short 3:50 flight from Bangkok) and woke up in the dark. I visited a local eatery cooking up a thali plate, rotis and naan bread for dinner. Dinner cost me only 20 rs, which is less than 50 cents.
No diarrhea yet in me or the cows, so all is well. I'm going to do some sightseeing tomorrow!
It is nice to be back! I've got a nice room for less than the cost of a youth hostel in Europe at Hotel Silver Shine in the Pahar Ganj area. It's where I stayed at last December. It's relatively expensive (less than $20), but the alternatives are either much more expensive or mosquito havens; I've got a good medium. I've got cable tv, refrigerator, hot water shower, and, more importantly, no mosquitos.
I went to care of some business at the Embassy cantonment area all morning and actually got it all done! I crashed out in the afternoon for a six hour siesta (I only got an hour sleep on the short 3:50 flight from Bangkok) and woke up in the dark. I visited a local eatery cooking up a thali plate, rotis and naan bread for dinner. Dinner cost me only 20 rs, which is less than 50 cents.
No diarrhea yet in me or the cows, so all is well. I'm going to do some sightseeing tomorrow!
Monday, March 20, 2006
Back on the road soon
I'm still in Bangkok for a few more hours. I've got a ticket on an Air India flight to New Delhi tonight (technically early tomorrow morning). I tried to get some business taken care of at the US Embassy (I needed a letter from my embassy to process a visa), but failed (they'd never heard of such a thing, and wouldn't do it!); it reminded me of trying to get stuff taken care of back on base in Keesler, so I wasn't too disppointed. I guess I could have pressed the issue, but I could tell that the automaton behind the window would not have budged. It's so different from the "mai ben rai" (Thai for "no problem!") attitude here. Anyways, I'm going to pick up where I left off three months ago in Delhi. It's hot and humid here in Bangkok, but at least the air is relatively clean (no black boogers), soot-free, and there's no cow dung on the road. I made a trip to McDonald's last night to savor "beef" once more time.
Khao San road video
This is a look at the backpacker ghetto in Bangkok, Khao San road.
Thursday, March 16, 2006
An excellent picnic set
An excellent picnic set
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Chicken wings, sausage, som tom (green papaya salad), and sticky rice.
Bungalows out of Mad Max
Bungalows out of Mad Max
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
On the northern end of White Sand Beach were a few bungalows that looked like set decoration out of a Kevin Kostner flick from the '90's.
White Sand Beach
White Sand Beach
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
For 40 BHT, we rented a coupe beach sling chairs to relax the while away.
Lonely Beach
Lonely Beach
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I rented a motorbike and drove down the hilly east coast of Ko Chang. I settled on this nice stretch of sand to spend the afternoon. It wasn't crowded with burnt package tourists, and the water was perfect.
Horseshoe crabs in a restaurant aquarium at Bang Bao, Ko Chang
In a few of the seafood restaurants at Bang Bao, they had fish tanks with wierd creatures. I assumed these were for eating, but I'm not sure.
Preying mantis prawn?
Another curiosity in the fish tanks were these prawns with heads like preying manti. These critters sort of creeped me out, as I declare in this video (R-rated for language).
Shrimp and what's that?
Shrimp and what's that?
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I never read about these wierd flat-shrimps (next to the large prawn) in oceanography class.
Bang Bao "fishing village"
Bang Bao "fishing village"
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
A fishing village on stilts -- this reminded me of the "Muslim fishing villages" in Phra Nga Bay. There were plenty of seafood restaurants and bungalows there.
Heading to Ko Chang
Heading to Ko Chang
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
From Siem Reap, I headed back to Bangkok. The transportation options from Siem Reap were the same as getting there. I got a $4 ticket for the tourist bus that was supposed to have air-conditioning from my guesthouse. Well, most of the buses had air-con, but the last one (mine) was covered with red dust on the inside, so I knew it wouldn't be a fun ride. Sure enough, the air-conditioning wasn't working and the windows were rolled open to let the gravel and dust in. Not a great experience, but not my worst bus journey either. After a couple stops, I made it to Poipet at 2pm to make the border crossing on foot, took a tuktuk to the bus station in Thailand and caught a government bus to Bangkok's Mor Chit station. The tourists on the bus from Siem Reap had paid $15 to get to Bangkok, but including tuktuk fare, paid about $13. Not bad considering I got there faster and with more leg room.
With little over a week left in Emily's stay in SE Asia, we made a dash for another beach; this time we headed to Ko Chang, a large island near the Cambodian border. Once again, avoiding the Khao San tourist traps, we headed to Ekkamai, the eastern bus station, and caught the last two seats on the 0745 bus to the Laem Ngop pier, over five hours away.
When we arrived, we were surprised that most people going to the island were on prepaid minibuses to their designated hotels and resorts.
Ko Chang is much larger and more developed than Ko Samet (i.e., there are paved roads). I settled on the main beach, Hat Sai Kaew, or White Sand Beach. The bungalow prices change quickly here. The Lonely Planet's recommended place has jumped from 500 BHT to 2000 BHT/night with air-conditioning. I guess that's the way with progress. I got a large bungalow away from the beach ensuite with fan and a nice porch.
The hordes ascending Phnom Bakheng for sunset
The hordes ascending Phnom Bakheng for sunset
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The base of this hill was a virtual parking lot full of tuktuks and tourist buses. There were even elephant rides ($15 going up and $10 going down) available. Everyone comes here to catch Angkor Wat in the setting sun's light, and to watch the sunset. I raced up here to catch the glow of Angkor Wat, but it wasn't too impressive as it was still quite a ways away.
Tastes like persimmon
Tastes like persimmon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I tried this fruit (about 25 cents). It tasted just like an orange hard persimmon! What a surprise. There are green and purple varieties of this fruit for sale all over Siem Reap. I'm not sure what it is, but it's tasty.
Shadow fascade
Shadow fascade
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I revisited Preah Khan in the evening via tuk-tuk. On the prior day, I got there right at closing time, so this time I made sure I was early.
Terrace of Elephants
Terrace of Elephants
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
On the third day, I biked to the Terrace of Elephant and the Leper King, better visualized in the morning light (and more bearable too!). This Terrace allowed the Devaraja to review processions before him on the large parade ground.
Preah Khan gate -- god
Preah Khan gate -- god
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Here is a close-up of a god, which, as with most cultures, has facial similarities with their own people.
Preah Khan gate -- demon
Preah Khan gate -- demon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Preah Khan was another city, just north of Angkor Thom. It also had the gods and demons lining the bridge crossing the moat. Here is a close-up look at one of the demons.
Ta Som gate
Ta Som gate
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This was labelled as a "one-star" attraction in the Angkor Guide, indicating, little archeological or artistic interest, so I was quite surprised to find it as enjoyable as Ta Prohm, without the crowds. Like Ta Prohm, they've filled some movies here too.
Pre Rup
Gasoline in bottles of scotch
Gasoline in bottles of scotch
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
All over SE Asia, people sell gasoline out of bottles. Interestingly, even in Cambodia they do this at the gas station. Those are empty bottles of Johnnie Walker Red Label filled with petrol.
Gardens in Siem Reap
Gardens in Siem Reap
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Here is a perfect example of how lush Siem Reap can be.
Downtown dirt streets
Downtown dirt streets
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is looking a lot like the rest of Cambodia, but I'm not sure why. Siem Reap from gross appearance looks like it has the best roads and facilities in all of Cambodia from the hordes of tourists that visit. The roads are great and the gardens lush. For some reason, the "downtown" area looks like the rest of Cambodia, but the streets have expensive boutiques, art galleries, and bars. Wierd.
Psar Chaa goods
Psar Chaa goods
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The old market in Siem Reap marks "downtown". The dark aisles are cramped and stuffy, smelling of fish paste. The floor is wet with the run off from the fish and meats department. Yum!
Ta Prohm tree
Ta Prohm tree
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
It looks like there's no one around, but there must have been about 25 tourists beside be waiting to take this photograph.
Ta Prohm and me
Ta Prohm and me
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is the most famous of temples that was mostly unrestored and left to be devoured by the jungle. There has been reinforcement to keep present arches from crumbling, but it gives a great idea on what Angkor must have looked like back in 1860.
Baphuon
Baphuon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This massive pyramid suffered greatly from poor engineering. For years, French archeologists were in the process of anastylosis, that is, the rebuilding of this structure using the methods the original builders had used. Thousands of stone blocks were numbered and placed in organized stacks and rows in the surrounding jungle. In 1975, these archeologists fled Pol Pot's bloody tyrrany, and when they returned, they discovered that all their records had been lost. So now they have a bunch of numbered blocks in separate areas of the forest without a clue as to where they go. Awwwwwesome, I'd say.
On the western side, there is an incomplete massive reclining Buddha. It just looks like a slightly organized pile of blocks.
Angkor Thom south gate
Angkor Thom south gate
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The gate entering the Royal City. Everything is under the watchful eye of the omnipresent king.
Demons pulling the serpent
Demons pulling the serpent
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Angkor Thom, is the Royal City just north of Angkor Wat. It is surrounded by a large wall and moat (now filled in). The bridges crossing the moat show demons on one side and gods on the other side, pulling on a serpent's tail.
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