Crossing the Red river
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Hanoi sits on the Red River, which, like the Mekong in the south, is a source of much of the north's food.
Sunday, October 02, 2005
Early morning Hanoi streets
Early morning Hanoi streets
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I had to get up early for my minibus to the border. Vendors lined the streets selling produce and meats.
Old Quarter
Old Quarter
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The streets in Hanoi are named after the things that you could buy on them a hundred years ago. The streets are still selling some of the same items. You will find a street block where they are selling Buddhist shrines, ghost money, ironworks, tin boxes, clothes, shoes, et cetera. The Lonely Planet guidebook makes a big deal of this and even has a "walking city tour" that you can do, but actually, this city planning is not unique to Hanoi and can be found in many Asian cities, including in Taiwan.
Friday, September 30, 2005
Guilin headed to Yangshuo
I'm in China (1 USD = 8.10 RMB) now! Yesterday was a long travel day. I left Hanoi at 6 am on a minibus ($6) to the Friendship Border at Dong Dang. It was a three hour ride. From there, I walked across the border and hopped in a taxi (30 RMB) to go to Pingxiang, the closest town in China 10 km away. Being able to speak Mandarin is great here. The southerns don't have a thick accent like the northerns, so it's easier for me to understand them. I was able to get some good and honest information from the taxi driver on the prices for transportation for the rest of the day. The surrounding area between Vietnam and China is filled with limestone karsts that rise out of the land. The landscape is so different from that of plate tectonics back home. I was able to get a bus (50 RMB) to Nanning (pop 1.3 million), the capital of Guangxi, the province here. It was a luxurious air-conditioned ride with ample seating. The area was gorgeous with rice fields and limestone karsts. It's true what they say, China is developping rapidly. They are building massive freeways, and modern apartment buildings are going up everywhere. I got into Nanning at 5 pm and caught a bus going to Guilin (88 RMB) that got me here at 11 pm. A long day. I found the closest hotel to the bus station (about 100 feet away), Guilin Huali Hotel, which was in the Lonely Planet. I was able to get a big hotel room ensuite, a/c, and cable tv for 120 RMB. Not a bad deal. I heard the desk clerk tell the registration lady to give me the "Chinese price". It pays to speak the local language!
Today is China's National Day, their Fourth of July. It's a week-long holiday for them meaning there are a lot of tourists about. The hotels have raised their prices, and the buses are full. I'm headed to Yangshuo in an hour. It's supposed to be a touristy spot to enjoy the scenery. We'll see if I can find a cheap room.
Today is China's National Day, their Fourth of July. It's a week-long holiday for them meaning there are a lot of tourists about. The hotels have raised their prices, and the buses are full. I'm headed to Yangshuo in an hour. It's supposed to be a touristy spot to enjoy the scenery. We'll see if I can find a cheap room.
Thursday, September 29, 2005
Headed to China
The past four days in Hanoi have been rainy due to a big typhoon that flooded parts of China and Vietnam. I had planned on going to Halong Bay, but trips were cancelled due to the storm. So I am headed to China tomorrow; I picked up my passport with the visa today. October 1st is their National Day which starts off a week-long national holiday. I am expecting prices to be higher and buses and trains to be crowded. I'm headed to Yangshuo, which may take two days to get to.
Vietnam has been surprisingly modern and fun. The food has been great, and there are far more tourists here than I had expected. The war is over! Despite being a Communist country, I've hardly noted anything that resembles it. Oh, besides the hammer & sickle flags adorn on government buildings. There is private ownership, there are beggars in the streets, there are products in stores.
I've had to deal with a few scams here and there, but the perspective is that even if I did get scammed, it was cheaper than the sales tax back home. If the prices were set across the board, it wouldn't be as challenging or fun. When I get a good deal, it does feel great, like I've earned it. It is frustrating sometimes, but it beats working any day.
I am looking forward to China. I have a pretty set mind on how things might be, and I am looking forward to destroying those preconceptions. The only time I have been in China was in 2001. I am sure a lot has changed.
Vietnam has been surprisingly modern and fun. The food has been great, and there are far more tourists here than I had expected. The war is over! Despite being a Communist country, I've hardly noted anything that resembles it. Oh, besides the hammer & sickle flags adorn on government buildings. There is private ownership, there are beggars in the streets, there are products in stores.
I've had to deal with a few scams here and there, but the perspective is that even if I did get scammed, it was cheaper than the sales tax back home. If the prices were set across the board, it wouldn't be as challenging or fun. When I get a good deal, it does feel great, like I've earned it. It is frustrating sometimes, but it beats working any day.
I am looking forward to China. I have a pretty set mind on how things might be, and I am looking forward to destroying those preconceptions. The only time I have been in China was in 2001. I am sure a lot has changed.
Monday, September 26, 2005
Bia Hoi Corner
Bia Hoi Corner
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is supposed to be a big deal in the tourist area. There are three bia hoi places that meet at this intersection, but it's not as good of a deal that I found down south. It's 1500 - 2000 dong for a glass of beer, but I had a Liter for 3000 dong in Saigon. The reason why this is a big deal in the guidebook, I think, is because it's in the tourist center, and the places I went to down south weren't touristy.
Communal building
Communal building
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
There are a lot of different ethnic groups in Vietnam. One of them made communal buildings like this one. I am impressed how similar aboriginial tribes dress all across Southeast Asia. Outside of the museum's main building were examples of the homes that the different "minority cultures" used in Vietnam. All in all, this museum was well-done, but incredibly boring, I mean, informative.
Fishtraps on a bike
Fishtraps on a bike
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I went to visit the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. This was an interesting display of how some people load up their bikes to go to work.
Thap Rua or "Tortoise Tower"
Thap Rua or "Tortoise Tower"
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is one of the islands in Ho Hoan Kiem or "Lake of the Restored Sword". There is a Vietnamese legend that is similar to King Arthur and Excaliber and the sword emanating from the Lake. Instead of a maid of the lake, it was a tortoise that took the sword back, so hence the name of the lake. Interestingly there have been a couple giant tortoises sightings. A speciman of "Rafetus leloii" was almost 600 lbs and six and a half feet long.
Hanoi streets
Hanoi streets
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The Old Quarter of Hanoi is centered around the north and northwest side of Hoan Kiem Lake. This a road next to the tree-lined lake. The streets are all crooked and the buildings dilapitated. Some of the store fronts are about six feet wide because these buildings were taxed by their widths. My first room in Hanoi was the width of my bed.
Breakfast pho
Breakfast pho
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Pho -- rice noodles. Bo -- beef.
This is a bowl of "pho bo".
Alley market
Alley market
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
My first hotel was in this alley, a dodgey establishment named "Camellia Star Hotel". "Camellia Hotel" is a well-established guesthouse chain in Hanoi, but this isn't one of their branches. Hanoi is full of copycat-named establishments. Once a place develops a good reputation and gets named in the Lonely Planet guidebook, other places open up with similar names so that taxi and cyclos can reroute tourists from their intended destinations to these copycat places. It is impressive how many "Sinh Cafe" travel shops there are around here. One place even took the names of three different travel agencies and told me that all three places joined together (yeah, right, just check the actual street address in the LP guidebook and you'll know). The prices at these dodgey places are really suspect. I have been trying to get a China visa and most reputable places (after checking seven different places) were charging about $55 - $60, but others were charging $35. All day yesterday, I went around checking prices. My guesthouse kept hounding me to get the visa through them, saying that they would price-match any other place. The problem is getting accurate up-to-date information on visas, and I was finally told that the Chinese embassy in Hanoi was only giving 30-day visas to Americans for the regular price PLUS $20 more. I decided to go with Kim's Cafe, and when I told my hotel that I wanted my passport (Vietnam hotels keep your passport at their front desks), they refused to give it to me. At first they said it was in the safe which was locked, and they wouldn't be able to open it until tomorrow morning (too late for me to get my visa by then), but then I said I wanted them to open the safe now. The clerk refused because I wasn't getting my visa through him. He said he would match whatever price I wanted (doesn't that sound dodgey?). I said I wasn't interested because he didn't have accurate information. Finally he said he was kicking me out of the hotel for not buying a tour through him (at 7pm), and I would have to pay for the night too. No way! I had to pull a "Crazy Ivan" on him. I went to a hotel around the corner (a place listed in the Lonely Planet guidebook and where I initially tried to get a room) and asked for help. Besides, I held them partially responsible for referring me to this crap hotel, and I wanted them to know what was going on. They were pleasantly helpful and came over to help me get my passport. By that time, the clerk's older brother/boss showed up and started bitching him out for pulling the scam. He was further embarrassed by having the other hotelier bear witness to the whole mess. He agreed to let me have my passport, but asked for me to consider applying for my visa through him so he could earn a commission.
Later on, I agreed to get my visa through him, but I think he was too embarrassed or ashamed and said I didn't have to. Today I checked out of that place with no further problems (besides the addition of a 10% VAT). Awesome! I love dodging scams!
Middle level on a hard sleeper
Middle level on a hard sleeper
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Not bad digs on the express train (E2) to Hanoi from Hue. It was about $21 for a middle level "hard sleeper" bunk (six to a cabin, but there were only four of us in there). The bunk actually had a sleeping mat and pad a couple inches thick, which was perfect. They provided linen, water, and a meal. The meal, as expected, wasn't great: some rice, soup, vegetables, and nasty fish. The toilets were metal squatters which was fine if you can imagine the messing aim on a train. They had soap at the sinks too. The train left (late) at 1810 and arrived at 0540 to a muggy early morning Hanoi. The attendent woke me up when I arrived.
Waiting for my train
Waiting for my train
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The train was 45 minutes late, so I was able to get something to eat at one of the restaurants next to the station. The food on the train had a reputation for being nasty, so this was a good idea.
Playing "tea-time" Vietnamese style
Playing "tea-time" Vietnamese style
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I saw these kids "playing tea" on the road side. They were mixing some water mixed with chopped up grass and pouring them into used empty yogurt containers.
Another great sunset
Another great sunset
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Fishermen tend their nets in the setting sun. Minutes later the sky lit up like it was on fire.
A tent at the Thuan An beach
A tent at the Thuan An beach
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I went to the beach a couple days in Hue. The beaches in Vietnam are better than the ones in Thailand because they have better waves and the sand is softer. There was only one other tent occupied both days I was there. This tent cost about $1.30. I had some drinks and they provided a cooler with icey water to keep them cool. The waves were great for body surfing, and the water temperature was about 80 degrees.
Peeling a pomelo
Peeling a pomelo
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The pomelo is a grapefruit-like fruit but less tart and with firmer pulp. I bought this for the beach for about fifty cents.
Day market near my hotel
Locals enjoying breakfast noodles in Hue. All across Vietnam, the traditional morning meal is a bowl of noodles. Here they were 2000 dong a bowl, or about 13 cents.
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Tomb of Thieu Tri (1841-47)
Tomb of Thieu Tri (1841-47)
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
In the surrounding country side, there are tombs of Emperors. This one was free to go to. I rented a motorbike to get here. It is cheaper to rent a motorbike ($4) than to take a guided tour around Hue. When I got to this tomb, I parked my bike near a vendor, who proceeded to give me a numbered card for parking. I said, "No." I knew she would ask me to pay for parking (with no apparent need to pay since it wasn't her land, and she wasn't doing anything in particular to warrant payment). She looked somewhat surprised and said, "Tow." Yeah, right, like anyone is going to tow my bike away. This is yet another scam they try to pull on tourists. Robert and I were asked to pay to park at the Cham towers in Nha Trang, but instead he parked 20 feet away for free. So, I didn't take her ticket, and I didn't move her bike, and there was nothing she could do. Ha ha.
At this tomb, some guys in blue uniforms stood by a sign that said the place was being restored and entry was not permitted, but the guys said it was very beautiful inside and that we could look inside for a fee. Yeah,...riiiiight.
Anyways, I read the these tombs were built by the successors. The tomb grounds were quite elaborate with gardens and statues. Over the tomb was an enormous piece of marble about ten feet high with Chinese writing. Upon this was carved the accomplishments and virtues of the deceased. I suppose the hefty marble and the kind words were used to keep the dead Emperor from rising from the dead and haunting the successor.
Driving around Hue I came to an abandoned, unfinished amusement park. There was a large ferris wheel and even a roller coaster. It looked pretty new, but only gray primer was painted on the equipment. Weed was growing up everywhere, and there was no signs of construction. Another abandoned investment project.
Tomorrow I will take the overnight train to Hanoi. I have a sleeper car!
The Emperor's Theatre
The Emperor's Theatre
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I can already hear the tinny cymbals and the squeaking of the stringed instruments. Chinese Opera should be used as a method of torture. Here at the Royal Theatre, they give performances to the package tourists. This is one of those things you see in a brochure back home, and sign up for, but when you get here, you're sadly disappointed.
The Forbidden Purple City
From Hoi An, I took a three-hour bus ride to Hue, the old capital during the Nguyen dynasty. This is another UNESCO World Heritage Site with a walled old city named the Citadel with its own Forbidden City, this one called the Forbidden Purple City. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, only the Emperor, the mandarins (officers), and the eunuchs were allowed inside. Today hundreds of camera-wielding tourists trample the grounds. Actually, only a few structures remain in the Forbidden City from the bombing during the "American War".
By the Flag Tower in the back, which is actually behind the Chinese gate, is 37-meters high, making it the tallest flag tower in Vietnam.
I am stuck in Hue for a few days to get my Vietnam visa renewed. I have been here almost a month now. In retrospect, I should have gotten the visa renewed in Hoi An where it was $17 for a 14-day visa and $23 for a 30-day visa and it only took half a day. Here, it's $30 and it takes a full day. Why the difference in price? Because it's the set price by the local officials. Do you think they just pocket the money? Of course. I went to the Immigration Police station yesterday morning so I could get my renewal. Relying on the Lonely Planet guide book (which was wrong), I spent an hour trying to find the station. I was directed to three other places (on three different streets by policemen in different buildings) until I finally found the office (by asking a travel agency). Once there, I waited around for a while until someone told me that I had to renew my visa through a travel agency. Oh well. Anyways, that was my attempt at avoiding Vietnam bureaucracy.
Cua Dai Beach
Cua Dai Beach
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I went to the beach near Hoi An. There was a nice grove of palm trees providing shade over soft sand. The waves were perfect for bodysurfing. The current was strong enough to pull off my goggles on a wave (and subsequently lose them). In the afternoon vendors brought out mats and cooked up food.
Sunday, September 18, 2005
Moonface places an offering on the ground for the dragon
Moonface places an offering on the ground for the dragon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The moonface gathers and fans the audience to collect money, which he places on the floor to placate the dragon.
Dragon dancing
Dragon dancing
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The dragon dance symbolizes the struggle between yin and yang.
Hoisted up in the air
Hoisted up in the air
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
These burly guys lifted up the dragon to get to the balcony of a bar.
Teams of dragons and drums in the streets
Teams of dragons and drums in the streets
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Teams of drummers and dragons roamed around stirring up the crowds. The guys in the red pants rotate their turns at being under the dragon. It takes about two or three guys to play the dragon.
Lantern contest across the river
Lantern contest across the river
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I had dinner at this balcony overlooking the lantern competition in An Hoi. Hordes of people walked across the pontoon bridge to see the lanterns. An old woman and man sang Vietnamese songs on a barge.
Streets of Hoi An at night
Streets of Hoi An at night
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The city center is off-limits to motored traffic. The lanterns made it seem like a different time.
Dragon dance during the mid Autumn festival
Dragon dance during the mid Autumn festival
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The 15th day of the 8th lunar month is Tet Trung Thu, or the mid-Autumn festival in Vietnam. It is also known as the Children's festival. Traditionally it was a time for families to spend more time with their children after working hard at harvesting the crops. Shops sell "mooncakes", pastries filled with mung bean paste, egg yolks, and, as Robert found out, sometimes durian. Lanterns are lit everywhere, and drums and dragons fill the street.
Picking bindweed in Hoi An
Picking bindweed in Hoi An
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
There is a pond in Hoi An where farmers grow bindweed. This stuff floats in the shallow water.
Nha Trang Sailing Club
Nha Trang Sailing Club
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This was a pricy place to have ice cream at $1 a scoop, but it was nice to recharge.
Po Nagar Cham tower
Po Nagar Cham tower
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
View of the Cham towers in Nha Trang from the bridge.
Fishing boats parted in Nha Trang
Fishing boats parted in Nha Trang
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
Nha Trang is a big fishing port. These colorful boats dotted the river inlet. That's the white Buddha in the background at Long Son Pagoda.
Deserted construction site
Deserted construction site
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is the deserted resort in mid-construction.
Great place to eat in Nha Trang
Great place to eat in Nha Trang
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
I ate here again whilein Nha Trang. It's in an empty lot next to the Green Hotel. Plates are also $1-$2 and the food comes quickly and portions are large.
View from a bus stop
View from a bus stop
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
The bus from Dalat to Nha Trang stopped at an overlook for a bathroom break.
HNL restaurant in Dalat
HNL restaurant in Dalat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.
This is a great restaurant in Dalat (it's across from Dreams Hotel). Linen tableclothes, great atmosphere, and $1-$2 per plate. I ended up eating here everyday.
Saturday, September 17, 2005
Nha Trang to Hoi An
From Dalat, I took a seven-hour bus journey to Nha Trang. It was hot and muggy down by the coast, but it allowed my clothes to dry out. I rented a motorcycle and cruised around a bit, visiting a deserted resort abandoned in mid-construction. Someone told me that this place cost $100 billion dollars, which hardly seemed likely, but that's what people say. Anyways, as often happens in corrupt countries, they let construction continue to attract more and more investors, then they ran off with most of the money, so the resort, in its partially built magnificence, lies by the beach, empty and deserted.
Last night I took the overnight bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An. The air-con wasn't working, so it quickly turned into a sticky, sweating delirium-filled night. I arrived in Hoi An this morning and slept.
It's mid-autumn festival tonight, so there are drums and dragons roaming the streets. I think the dragons (played by kids) are supposed to get money in their mouths. Anyways, it's an interesting twist on Halloween.
Last night I took the overnight bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An. The air-con wasn't working, so it quickly turned into a sticky, sweating delirium-filled night. I arrived in Hoi An this morning and slept.
It's mid-autumn festival tonight, so there are drums and dragons roaming the streets. I think the dragons (played by kids) are supposed to get money in their mouths. Anyways, it's an interesting twist on Halloween.
Green rolling hills around Dalat
I rode 3 km to this overlook dubbed the Valley of Love. They should have named it the Valley of Tacky Things with the carnival rides and wierd "Alice in Wonderland" sculptures everywhere.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)