Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Tomb of Thieu Tri (1841-47)


Tomb of Thieu Tri (1841-47)
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

In the surrounding country side, there are tombs of Emperors. This one was free to go to. I rented a motorbike to get here. It is cheaper to rent a motorbike ($4) than to take a guided tour around Hue. When I got to this tomb, I parked my bike near a vendor, who proceeded to give me a numbered card for parking. I said, "No." I knew she would ask me to pay for parking (with no apparent need to pay since it wasn't her land, and she wasn't doing anything in particular to warrant payment). She looked somewhat surprised and said, "Tow." Yeah, right, like anyone is going to tow my bike away. This is yet another scam they try to pull on tourists. Robert and I were asked to pay to park at the Cham towers in Nha Trang, but instead he parked 20 feet away for free. So, I didn't take her ticket, and I didn't move her bike, and there was nothing she could do. Ha ha.
At this tomb, some guys in blue uniforms stood by a sign that said the place was being restored and entry was not permitted, but the guys said it was very beautiful inside and that we could look inside for a fee. Yeah,...riiiiight.
Anyways, I read the these tombs were built by the successors. The tomb grounds were quite elaborate with gardens and statues. Over the tomb was an enormous piece of marble about ten feet high with Chinese writing. Upon this was carved the accomplishments and virtues of the deceased. I suppose the hefty marble and the kind words were used to keep the dead Emperor from rising from the dead and haunting the successor.
Driving around Hue I came to an abandoned, unfinished amusement park. There was a large ferris wheel and even a roller coaster. It looked pretty new, but only gray primer was painted on the equipment. Weed was growing up everywhere, and there was no signs of construction. Another abandoned investment project.
Tomorrow I will take the overnight train to Hanoi. I have a sleeper car!

Inside the Forbidden Purple City


Inside the Forbidden Purple City
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The Emperor's Theatre


The Emperor's Theatre
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I can already hear the tinny cymbals and the squeaking of the stringed instruments. Chinese Opera should be used as a method of torture. Here at the Royal Theatre, they give performances to the package tourists. This is one of those things you see in a brochure back home, and sign up for, but when you get here, you're sadly disappointed.

The Forbidden Purple City


From Hoi An, I took a three-hour bus ride to Hue, the old capital during the Nguyen dynasty. This is another UNESCO World Heritage Site with a walled old city named the Citadel with its own Forbidden City, this one called the Forbidden Purple City. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, only the Emperor, the mandarins (officers), and the eunuchs were allowed inside. Today hundreds of camera-wielding tourists trample the grounds. Actually, only a few structures remain in the Forbidden City from the bombing during the "American War".
By the Flag Tower in the back, which is actually behind the Chinese gate, is 37-meters high, making it the tallest flag tower in Vietnam.
I am stuck in Hue for a few days to get my Vietnam visa renewed. I have been here almost a month now. In retrospect, I should have gotten the visa renewed in Hoi An where it was $17 for a 14-day visa and $23 for a 30-day visa and it only took half a day. Here, it's $30 and it takes a full day. Why the difference in price? Because it's the set price by the local officials. Do you think they just pocket the money? Of course. I went to the Immigration Police station yesterday morning so I could get my renewal. Relying on the Lonely Planet guide book (which was wrong), I spent an hour trying to find the station. I was directed to three other places (on three different streets by policemen in different buildings) until I finally found the office (by asking a travel agency). Once there, I waited around for a while until someone told me that I had to renew my visa through a travel agency. Oh well. Anyways, that was my attempt at avoiding Vietnam bureaucracy.

Sun setting over Hoi An


Sun setting over Hoi An
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Cua Dai Beach


Cua Dai Beach
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I went to the beach near Hoi An. There was a nice grove of palm trees providing shade over soft sand. The waves were perfect for bodysurfing. The current was strong enough to pull off my goggles on a wave (and subsequently lose them). In the afternoon vendors brought out mats and cooked up food.

Moon over another street corner


Moon over another street corner
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Sunday, September 18, 2005

Moonface places an offering on the ground for the dragon


Moonface places an offering on the ground for the dragon
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The moonface gathers and fans the audience to collect money, which he places on the floor to placate the dragon.

Dragon dancing


Dragon dancing
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The dragon dance symbolizes the struggle between yin and yang.

Hoisted up in the air


Hoisted up in the air
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

These burly guys lifted up the dragon to get to the balcony of a bar.

Teams of dragons and drums in the streets


Teams of dragons and drums in the streets
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Teams of drummers and dragons roamed around stirring up the crowds. The guys in the red pants rotate their turns at being under the dragon. It takes about two or three guys to play the dragon.

Lantern contest across the river


Lantern contest across the river
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I had dinner at this balcony overlooking the lantern competition in An Hoi. Hordes of people walked across the pontoon bridge to see the lanterns. An old woman and man sang Vietnamese songs on a barge.

Streets of Hoi An at night


Streets of Hoi An at night
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The city center is off-limits to motored traffic. The lanterns made it seem like a different time.

Dragon dance during the mid Autumn festival


Dragon dance during the mid Autumn festival
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The 15th day of the 8th lunar month is Tet Trung Thu, or the mid-Autumn festival in Vietnam. It is also known as the Children's festival. Traditionally it was a time for families to spend more time with their children after working hard at harvesting the crops. Shops sell "mooncakes", pastries filled with mung bean paste, egg yolks, and, as Robert found out, sometimes durian. Lanterns are lit everywhere, and drums and dragons fill the street.

Lanterns ready for the mid-Autumn festival


Lanterns ready for the mid-Autumn festival
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Old Chinese architecture in Hoi An


Old Chinese architecture in Hoi An
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Picking bindweed in Hoi An


Picking bindweed in Hoi An
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

There is a pond in Hoi An where farmers grow bindweed. This stuff floats in the shallow water.

Nha Trang Sailing Club


Nha Trang Sailing Club
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

This was a pricy place to have ice cream at $1 a scoop, but it was nice to recharge.

Po Nagar Cham tower


Po Nagar Cham tower
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

View of the Cham towers in Nha Trang from the bridge.

Fishing boats parted in Nha Trang


Fishing boats parted in Nha Trang
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

Nha Trang is a big fishing port. These colorful boats dotted the river inlet. That's the white Buddha in the background at Long Son Pagoda.

Deserted construction site


Deserted construction site
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

This is the deserted resort in mid-construction.

Great place to eat in Nha Trang


Great place to eat in Nha Trang
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

I ate here again whilein Nha Trang. It's in an empty lot next to the Green Hotel. Plates are also $1-$2 and the food comes quickly and portions are large.

View from a bus stop


View from a bus stop
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

The bus from Dalat to Nha Trang stopped at an overlook for a bathroom break.

HNL restaurant in Dalat


HNL restaurant in Dalat
Originally uploaded by bastchild.

This is a great restaurant in Dalat (it's across from Dreams Hotel). Linen tableclothes, great atmosphere, and $1-$2 per plate. I ended up eating here everyday.